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NORDICA
A knarr under sail in a black ocean swell near an icy coast

Section 3 of 9

The North Atlantic

Iceland, Greenland, Vinland. The one direction where empty land was settled rather than someone else’s taken.

What sets this direction apart

In the west they took what belonged to others; in the east they traded with others. In the North Atlantic there were no others at all: the islands stood empty, and everything that happened there was people trying to establish themselves where nobody had lived before.

Which is why the age’s most honest reckoning is here. Iceland is still standing, Greenland lasted five hundred years and emptied, America was never held at all. Three outcomes of one and the same undertaking — and not one of them was inevitable.

Field note

08

Settlement and landscape archaeology

archaeological find

What separates a settlement trace from its story?

At L’Anse aux Meadows, archaeology records a North Atlantic settlement with buildings and evidence of ironworking. This complex confirms Scandinavian presence in the Americas around 1000 and gives the discussion of Vinland a firm point of reference.

Facts and sources

12 entries, 2 of them disputed

The Faroes and Iceland were settled for the first time: there were no natives there.

This sets the North Atlantic apart from every other direction. There was no raid and nothing taken from anyone: people moved into an empty house, and the adversary was not other men but the weather and the shortage of timber.

A matter of scholarly dispute— what is argued

Ninth-century Irish texts say hermit monks, the papar, lived on the islands before the Norse; Icelandic sources agree, but there is almost no archaeological trace of them. In the Faroes, barley grains and signs of grazing have been found in sediments dated to the fourth to sixth centuries — so someone was there several hundred years before the Norse. Who, exactly, is unknown.

Both Greenland settlements stood on the same coast — the western one.

The Eastern and Western Settlements lay some five hundred kilometres apart on the south-west coast; the “eastern” one was simply further south. The names misled later Europeans: for centuries the lost colony was hunted for on the east coast, where nobody had ever lived.

The two Vinland sagas tell different stories.

The Saga of the Greenlanders and Erik the Red’s Saga disagree about who sailed west, in what order, and what they found. Both were written down two or three centuries after the events. Archaeology has confirmed that the voyages happened — but not the details, and certainly not the geography.

The meeting with the local people ended in hostility and withdrawal.

The sagas call them skrælingjar. First cloth and milk were traded for furs, then there was fighting. Across the ocean the Norse were outnumbered and had no reinforcements — so they left. The continent was beyond them; it was not a matter of taste.

There was nothing to build with, so houses were built of turf.

In Iceland and Greenland walls were laid up from turf blocks as much as a metre thick, and wood was saved for the frame — imported, or driftwood gathered along the shore. The forests of Vinland were not a curiosity to the Greenlanders but a raw material: that is what they sailed for.

Iceland lost its woodland within a few generations.

When people arrived, roughly a quarter of the island carried open birch woodland. Felling for charcoal and building, together with sheep grazing, cleared almost all of it: today about two per cent is wooded. The restoration is still going on.

The Greenland colony lasted some five hundred years and then vanished.

The last record of it is a wedding at Hvalsey church in 1408. After that, silence: the sources report no disaster and no evacuation.

A matter of scholarly dispute— what is argued

There are several explanations and none accounts for everything. The cooling of the Little Ice Age; exhausted pasture and erosion; the collapse in demand for walrus ivory once African elephant ivory arrived; people drifting back to Iceland and Norway; clashes with the Inuit. There is no evidence of mass death — the settlements appear to have emptied rather than perished.